Inside the MAXHOSA FW25 Show: the Art of Capturing It All

MAXHOSA is a South African knitwear brand founded in 2010 by Laduma Ngxokolo. Its creations are all about contrast, patterns and knitwear, showcasing the beauty and culture of the Xhosa people. 

It is a favourite among a culture-savvy generation that wants to honour pride without wearing their parents’ prints
- Vogue Runway

The Fall-Winter 2025 collection is about celebrating women and paying homage to the ancestor matriarchs of Africa.

Maxhosa Fall-Winter 2025’s presentation took place in Paris at the iconic Champs-Élysées area within the PFW official calendar. It was sunny (a bit unusual for Paris lol), March 8th - quite a symbolic date for the presentation of a women-inspired collection. By 8 AM, I was already there, prepping for five intense hours inside the backstage whirlwind.

My creative brief was clear: capture the makeup department first, then shift focus to the hair team and the broader backstage scene. Finally, I needed to wrap it all up with polished presentation shots of the final looks.

The Energy Behind the Curtain

The day started relatively calmly - with the backstage, makeup and hair teams gathering and installing their mirrors and equipment. Braid and hair extensions work had already begun in the early morning, and it is INSANE how much effort is required to provide all the models with some kind of particular hairdo, extensions or installations. The moment when models started to arrive changed everything. Now, it is a living electric storm, creative hive and chaos at the same time, but in a good way. 

Backstage moves like a high-speed assembly line - buzzing with voices and the hum of hairdryers. Models flow from one station to the next, each step bringing them closer to their final transformation. First, the makeup artists work their artistry - blending, contouring, and layering pigments to bring each look to life, every brushstroke calculated in detail. Then it’s off to hair, where every braid, wave, or extension is installed with intention. Next, dressers slip them into their looks, making sure every button, strap, and seam is exactly where it needs to be. And finally, the last-minute touch-ups - a dusting of powder, a quick pin, a deep breath - before they step onto the runway, ready to own it.

Everything is synchronized, fast-paced, and efficient - each person focused on their role to ensure the final look is flawless before it hits the runway.

<span style="color: white;">4</span>

The Moment It All Comes Together

I find that the setting for the presentation was quite in line with the brand. The show started with XX Doe Boy performing, while models started to walk to the center of the salon. The music was not a lot, in a good way. I find that sometimes brands overdo the music performances before the actual runway, to the point that boredom starts to appear on guests’ faces. This was definitely not one of those times.

For the presentation, I wanted to capture both the overall vibe/setting and the looks in particular. For me, it was important to never capture anything separately. I’m always thinking about the context - how the models interact with the space, how the set design changes your perspective of the collection, and how the runway dynamics play a part in the experience.

‍

‍

<span style="color: white;">4</span>

Navigating the Challenges

I’m confident I captured the essence of every department, from makeup to the final runway moment. Big thanks to everyone for being so tolerant when I was trying to get my way between the rows hundreds of times per hour and when I was using my flash (I know it could be annoying).

‍
I won’t sugarcoat it - this shoot was a challenge. First, the space was tight. It wasn’t just crowded - it was impossibly tight. Three departments squeezed into a space never meant to be a backstage hub, making every move a test of agility. At times, I had to get inventive - squeezing through gaps, manoeuvring around people, and finding angles in impossibly tight corners.

Then, the lighting conditions. There were three light sources in the same room with three different temperatures: window light (sometimes with harsh focused sun), basic orange room light and mirror lights. My trusty flashlight was working like never. 

The challenge of these conditions is that, in order to provide the best quality results, you need to be set up comfortably with all your equipment, ready to adjust settings quickly. Sometimes, it feels like literal juggling. I didn’t use an assistant, and in spaces like this, it’s not a good idea to use a big softbox. So, my set-up could be described as "less is more" - a main camera, separate flash, and an iPhone on a stick for videos.

Shooting a show like Maxhosa’s is a test of speed, adaptability, and instinct. Tight spaces, unpredictable lighting, and the nonstop pace make it both exhilarating and exhausting. But when the final images come together - when you see the artistry of every department reflected in a single frame- it’s always worth it. Big thanks to the incredible team that made this show happen, and check out the reels I created for the key makeup artist Porsche Cooper to get a closer look at the magic behind the scenes.

<div class="reels-wrapper">
   <iframe class="reel" src="https://www.instagram.com/reel/DHZWUyLpBft/embed" width="320" height="700" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" allowfullscreen></iframe>
   <iframe class="reel" src="https://www.instagram.com/reel/DHLwhEoOGFn/embed" width="320" height="700" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</div>

‍

Photography Sasha Zheinova‍

Key Makeup Artist Porsche Cooper ‍

Hair Team TRESemmé South Africa

Backstage Fashion For Futures